Jewelled Lizard CB24

Jewelled Lizard


Care Sheet

Male European Eyed Lizard CB21
Jewelled Lizard on branch in vivarium

HOUSING YOUR LIZARD

Jewelled Lizards require as much space as we can give them, but reasonably as adults need at least a 4ft by 2ft vivarium if not a custom larger enclosure. This is partially due to them needing space to roam and exhibit their natural behaviours, and partially due to the hot spot they require and the ability to create a thermal gradient within the tank.

Jewelled Lizards exhibit hot areas and use their natural environment in order to reach their optimum temperatures. Jewelled Lizards enjoy basking on rocks to get warm and use holes within the outcrops to cool down after reaching the required temperature. It is important for us to try and provide an environment as close to the one where they would be found, within captivity. Jewelled Lizards require a basking site which reaches their optimum temperatures, along with a cool area and so we use the ends of the tank for this. One end should have a heat lamp or ceramic to provide the hot spot, while the other end should offer a cool area for the lizard to cool down.

UVB lighting is essential for Jewelled Lizards as they would naturally gain it from the sun in the wild. This is provided in the form of a T5 or T8 bulb in strip form to provide UVB throughout the whole tank. Wooden vivariums are ideal for Jewelled Lizards as they effectively retain heat, unlike glass tanks that can become excessively hot like a greenhouse and too cold in cool temperatures, potentially lowering the ambient temperature below the necessary level.

Provide rocks and décor for your lizard for enrichment; placing cork bark hides on both ends of the enclosure gives your animal a good place to hide and sleep. Make sure to include a basking spot with a heat lamp to allow your collared lizard to regulate its body temperature. Additionally, provide a shallow water dish for drinking and soaking, as well as regular misting to maintain humidity levels.

HOUSING YOUR LIZARD

Jewelled Lizards require as much space as we can give them, but reasonably as adults need at least a 4ft by 2ft vivarium if not a custom larger enclosure. This is partially due to them needing space to roam and exhibit their natural behaviours, and partially due to the hot spot they require and the ability to create a thermal gradient within the tank.

Jewelled Lizards exhibit hot areas and use their natural environment in order to reach their optimum temperatures. Jewelled Lizards enjoy basking on rocks to get warm and use holes within the outcrops to cool down after reaching the required temperature. It is important for us to try and provide an environment as close to the one where they would be found, within captivity. Jewelled Lizards require a basking site which reaches their optimum temperatures, along with a cool area and so we use the ends of the tank for this. One end should have a heat lamp or ceramic to provide the hot spot, while the other end should offer a cool area for the lizard to cool down.

UVB lighting is essential for Jewelled Lizards as they would naturally gain it from the sun in the wild. This is provided in the form of a T5 or T8 bulb in strip form to provide UVB throughout the whole tank. Wooden vivariums are ideal for Jewelled Lizards as they effectively retain heat, unlike glass tanks that can become excessively hot like a greenhouse and too cold in cool temperatures, potentially lowering the ambient temperature below the necessary level.

Provide rocks and décor for your lizard for enrichment; placing cork bark hides on both ends of the enclosure gives your animal a good place to hide and sleep. Make sure to include a basking spot with a heat lamp to allow your collared lizard to regulate its body temperature. Additionally, provide a shallow water dish for drinking and soaking, as well as regular misting to maintain humidity levels.

Jewelled Lizard on branch in vivarium
European Eyed Lizard CB21

HANDLING YOUR LIZARD

Jewelled lizards are known to be fairly patient and calm lizards. As juveniles, they can be skittish and fast moving however with time and patience your Jewelled Lizards can become very tame, similar to a bearded dragon. This is of course individual to each Jewelled Lizard as they all have their own personalities.

We recommend handling within your tank to begin with, this allows your lizard to run free if it chooses to and if it drops from your hand it can land safely and not get lost. 

Over time, you can bring your lizard out on to your hand, being careful not to dop your lizard. You may find that treat foods such as worms can help improve your bond, take care not to feed these consistently as they ado not contain everything that a Jewelled Lizard needs.
 

European Eyed Lizard CB22

GENERAL CARE

Genus, Species Timon lepidus
Adult Size 30-60cm
Habitat Woodlands Scrub
Lifespan 20-25+ Years
Diet Insects dusted with calcium +D3, some fruit/ shredded greens
Ambient Temp (f) 75-85
Basking Temp (f) 95-100 Humidity (%) 40-60 UVI Zone range: 1.0 – 2.6 Max Bask: 2.9 – 7.4
Locality Europe Difficulty 2
Breeding Age 24 months +
Social Structure Bonded pairs or trios, or keep singularly

GENERAL CARE

Genus, Species Timon lepidus
Adult Size 30-60cm
Habitat Woodlands Scrub
Lifespan 20-25+ Years
Diet Insects dusted with calcium +D3, some fruit/ shredded greens
Ambient Temp (f) 75-85
Basking Temp (f) 95-100 Humidity (%) 40-60 UVI Zone range: 1.0 – 2.6 Max Bask: 2.9 – 7.4
Locality Europe Difficulty 2
Breeding Age 24 months +
Social Structure Bonded pairs or trios, or keep singularly

European Eyed Lizard CB22
Male European Eyed Lizard CB21

SEXING YOUR LIZARD

As Juveniles it can be difficult to sex Jewelled lizards however once they are several months old, males femoral pores will start to become distinctive.

Males are larger in body and have a much larger head in comparison to that of a female.

Males and Females are visibly similar in colour however females will have a generally muted colour compared to males.

SHOPPING LIST

SHOPPING LIST

European Eyed Lizard CB21

HEALTH CHECK

Eyes- Eyes are clear with no sign of puss, inflammation or milky appearance. Eyes are free of black spots in corners which could signify mites.

Skin- The skin is clear of shed and there are no cuts or scrapes on the lizards skin. Occasionally locusts or crickets can nip the skin of the lizard. Always remove live food that is not eaten after the lizards meal to prevent further bites and stress which can stop your lizard eating.

Limbs- All the limbs are moving correctly and the lizard is able to walk and move normally. Lizards can suffer from a condition called MBD (metabolic bone disease). This occurs when lizards do not have enough calcium D3 and causes their bones to grow abnormally, eventually restricting their movements. MBD cannot be reversed so always dust livefood with calcium twice a week to avoid MBD occurring.

Weight- Many lizards in captivity are overweight which is generally a result of the lizard being fed on worms alone or fed too often. Feed your lizards a mixed diet of locusts, crickets, roaches, mealworms and pinkie mice to adults as a treat..

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